I've had quite a few enquiries as to how I paint my creations. Eventually you will be adding ever thinner and smoother layers of putty and the surface should be smoothed out with the Dremel and wet and dry paper. I keep on filling and shaping and sanding. This stage is critical to the final mask, but take your time and have patience. Once these have set they will be strong enough to support further sculpting and sanding. I altered their shape a little using some card inserts covered in putty. Once 80% of the mask was covered, I noticed that the eyes were a little bigger and less menacing than the original. This allows me to see where I am and which bits need more putty or more sanding back. the putty is applied, allowed to set, then rough sanded back using the Dremel. In the US 'Bondo' car body filler is the brand usually used for this.īecause the putty sets very quickly (5 or 6 minutes working time if you are lucky) I work in small areas at a time.
I use Isopon P38 Easy Sand because it's easy to get here in the UK. I began by applying car body filler which is a polyester resin based putty. All the flat surfaces need to be smoothed out and rounded. They are too 'flat' and need to be more bulbous. Also a good look over the movie original stills shows that the lower jowls are the wrong shape. It's obvious that the laser sighting system(s) are missing and will be added in later. Once the fibreglass has fully cured and the mask is rock hard, it's time to iron out all the facets and make any corrections to the original sculpt. It can be left for years before any further work is done, and should last for a very long time. I then used a Dremel to sand and clean up all the edges, remove any sharp bits from the inside, then cut out the eyes.Īt this stage the mask is totally stable and very tough. That should be enough to make a really strong mask. I used one layer of tissue matt followed by one layer of coarse matt.
Once this had all cured fully, I removed the masking tape support strip from the rear and began the process of adding Fibreglass to the inside. The card will become an integral part of the resin and make it almost unbreakable. You should see the resin 'soak' into the card making it translucent, this is exactly what we want. Make sure that the card is well covered in resin. This strengthens the card enormously and allows the heavier treatment it will get later. I gave the mask two coats on both the inside and the outside. So the next step is to coat the card structure with resin. The card structure does not have enough strength on it's own for any meaningful use.
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